Diagonal creases around the armhole (jhol) and underarm cutting pain are the hallmark of mismatched armhole depth or incomplete front scoop (khada). This diagnostic guide systematically identifies root causes and corrective measures.
1. Common Defects & Diagnostic Solutions
Defect: Fabric gathers/puckers in front underarm
Root Cause: Insufficient front armhole curve scoop (Khada depth).
Fix: Scoop front armhole curve 0.5" to 0.75" deeper than the back armhole.
Defect: Tightness under armpit when raising arms
Root Cause: Armhole cut too high or sleeve cap height drafted too tall.
Fix: Lower armhole depth by 0.5" and increase sleeve bicep allowance.