Bottom-wear fitting in Indian tailoring requires precise balance. If the crotch depth is cut too shallow, the salwar pulls uncomfortably when sitting (aasan khichna). If cut too long, the garment looks untidy.
Essential Bottom-Wear Measuring Checklist
- 1. Total Outseam Length: Measure from the navel/waist tying point straight down to the top of the foot / ankle floor.
- 2. Hip / Seat Circumference: Measure around the fullest projection of the buttocks. Add 4" to 6" ease for belts.
- 3. Crotch / Aasan Depth: Standard formula: (Hip ÷ 3) or (Hip ÷ 4 + 2.5"). For Patiala with 7" belt: Belt 7" + Lower body crotch 8.5" = 15.5" total.
- 4. Bottom Opening (Mohri / Poncha): Standard Salwar: 6.5" to 7.5" | Churidar: 4.5" to 5.0" (with side slit/hooks) | Cigarette Pant: 5.5" to 6.5" | Palazzo: 10" to 16"+.
- 5. Churidar Churis Allowance: Add 8 to 15 inches extra fabric length for rich pleats / rings at the ankle.